Beauty tech
European startups get their glow up
Last updated: 7 Jul 2022
Market 101
The beauty industry has long been ruled by centuries-old giants, responsible for staples in our cupboards and myths in our collective imagination that have been equally enduring. But a growing number of startups believe both that incumbents’ hold is slipping as increasingly savvy consumers look for more transparency and “authenticity” — that holy grail of brand-building — and that they’re best placed to develop alternatives that are anything but stale, generic or patronising (as some old campaigns undoubtedly were).
But beauty startups aren’t just in the business of branding — they’re also using tech like VR and AI to turbocharge ecommerce and wean the industry off brick-and-mortar retail. In other words, they’re changing both the way we shop for beauty and how we think about its place in our lives, from the products we buy to the promises we’re willing to believe in.
Early stage market map
Key facts
€80bn
European cosmetics and personal care retail sales in 20211
15
% decline in global beauty retail sales in 20202
85
% of beauty purchases made in store pre-Covid (60% for millennials and Gen Z)3
Trends to watch
1. Carving out new niches
→ Companies are increasingly targeting underserved groups by developing new formulae specifically for their needs, or introducing previously overlooked products into their routine.
→ This includes skincare for people of colour — which often requires startups to set up their own labs and testing processes — as well as men’s eye creams and exfoliators.
2. Gen Z buys into green
→ Unburdened by the legacy processes of big brands, many beauty startups are attempting to integrate sustainability from the outset rather than as an afterthought.
→ Some of them are cleaning up their supply chains — sourcing their ingredients and their manufacturing processes — while others are minimising waste through refillable products or sustainable packaging.
3. Ecommerce enablers
→ Having previously relied heavily on retail sales, purchasing habits for beauty products have followed the broader shift towards online shopping.
→ Startups are providing the tech to upgrade this experience, whether by enabling virtual try-ons or increasingly complex personalisation features.
4. DTC — still the place to be?
→ A growing number of startups are trying to cut out middlemen by going direct to consumer, allowing them to offer products at a price point that sits between supermarkets and high-end brands, while achieving tighter feedback loops with customers.
→ While some incumbents (notably in the US) have picked up these brands to shore up their product ranges, they’ve struggled with turning their acquisitions profitable thanks to high customer acquisition costs.
Startups tracked by Sifted
Sifted take
If not recession-proof, the beauty industry has historically been at least recession-resilient thanks to the “lipstick effect” — small, wallet-friendly luxury survives economic bumpiness. Despite this, it’s likely that with recession looming and inflation still rocketing, investors may be more easily lured by B2B beauty startups with reliable SaaS metrics — and only the most robust consumer startups will come out stronger than before.
Rising stars
Europe's leading pre-Series A startups (all published data verified) We identify companies as ‘rising stars’ using a number of criteria including founder backgrounds, investor track record, funding and valuation, and growth signals
Backed by the likes of Lakestar and Molten Ventures, AGORA allows users to share and monetise videos with their beauty product recommendations. Its cofounders were previously part of the founding team of Lazada, an ecommerce platform acquired by China’s Alibaba at a $2bn valuation.
Round
Seed
Date
2020
Size
€6m
Backed by Alven, Typology is a DTC skincare company focused on natural, minimal ingredients. It was founded by serial entrepreneur Ning Li whose previous ventures include ecommerce furniture brand Made.com, which IPO’d in 2021.
Round
Seed
Date
2019
Size
€8.8m
Cofounded by a former BCG consultant alongside the cofounder of an acquired dry cleaning company, 900.care offers beauty and hygiene products in refillable containers made from recycled plastic. Its investors include White Star Capital, Founders Future and 360 Capital Partners.
Round
Seed
Date
2021
Size
€10m
Early stage startups to watch
900.care
Hair care & personal hygiene
€10m
€10m
-
AGORA
Online marketplace
€6m
€6m
-
Atypical Cosmetics Ltd
Skincare
€276k
€156k
€1m
BeautyQlick AB
Online marketplace
€38k
€38k
€733k
Clear
Online marketplace
€800k
€800k
€14m
Gallinée
Skincare
€2m
€500k
-
Glambook
Online marketplace
€500k
€500k
€3.5m
Kolay Randevu & SalonaAppy
Online marketplace
€1.1m
€100k
€500k
Oodee Ltd
Skincare
€815k
€815k
€2.5m
Permano
Hair care & personal hygiene
€400k
€250k
€2.3m
Renude
Beauty assistants & consultations
€750k
€450k
-
SheerME
Online marketplace
€800k
€560k
€5m
Typology
€8.8m
€8.8m
-
Vice Reversa
Skincare
€1.1m
€1.1m
€2.8m
We Are Eves
Wellness Beauty,Media
€5.5m
€4m
-
Yuty (YUTYBAZAR Limited)
SaaS
Ecommerce enablers
€580k
€580k
-
Sources
Research reports
14 Trends Changing The Face Of The Beauty Industry In 2021 | May 2021 | CB Insights Research
News articles
Smooth operators — the start-ups changing the face of men's skincare | August 2021 | FT
2 Taking a good look at the beauty industry | July 2021 | McKinsey
5 steps to a more sustainable D2C, from beauty startup founders | June 2021 | Sifted
It may not be as glamorous as D2C, but beauty tech is big money | January 2021 | TechCrunch
“The whole industry is set up for caucasian skin”: the startup diversifying skincare | October 2020 | Sifted
3 How the beauty industry can survive coronavirus | May 2020 | McKinsey
Can L'Oreal's beauty accelerator in Paris help it keep up with the Kardashians? | March 2019 | Sifted
Made.com founder Ning Li takes on the beauty business | February 2019 | Sifted
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